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The orignal Ender 3 Pro isn't available at the moment but linked below is the Ender 3 S1 Pro which is a more upgrade model of the original
The Ender 3 S1 Plus is a larger version of the Ender 3 S1 Pro with a nice upgrade in build plate size
I have found the Micro Swiss .6mm nozzles to be the most durable and also the best size for the Creality Ender 3 Printer Variants
While it is a bit more expensive, this filament does the job right.
This is a mid-tier filament providing a decent price point and good, reliable, printing.
Bonus if you catch it when it is on sale!
This filament is a good lower-cost option. If you have any issues the company is good about resolving them.
This is probably the cheapest option I have found. With plenty of colors to choose from, it gets the job done!
Springs for the Enders are a must! The factory springs are weak and don't hold the bed in place properly.
The same goes for the Ender 3 S1 Plus, a bed spring upgrade is a must.
This direct extrusion kit was an easy swap and helps you print those difficult filaments that have trouble traversing the Bowden tubes.
Others have noted that it doesn't quite lock into place. This is true, however, once you print the holder you shouldn't need to worry about it locking in place, the holder will keep it from getting unplugged.
Creality Ender 3 PRO Compact SD Card Adapter Housing by BoothyBoothy - Thingiverse
The factory build plate works quite well for a time, but when that time is up, it is time for an upgrade to a PEI sheet.
This filament can be a bit finicky but once you pin down your settings this creates a beautiful product.
Use these purple glue sticks if you have trouble with bed adhesion. Spread evenly on your build plate and preheat bed till you can't see the glue anymore. Just remember to wash your prints off once you are done!
The new S1 printers may already come with this, but for those with an original Ender 3 Pro, this is a nice upgrade.
This food dehydrator has been perfect at drying out wet filament.
Did you get a new roll that is printing poorly with lots of stringing or brittleness?
DRY IT OUT!!
You do have to modify and cut the plastic trays to fit the filament inside the dehydrator, but it has been an invaluable asset to restore seemingly unusable rolls of filament, new or old.
I normally dry my PLA at 115F for 8-12 hours to get great results.
This has been great at keeping that filament dry during a long print. You must find a stable place for this to feed the filament as it can fall over and damage the print or printer without good positioning.
While it is certainly not the most powerful laser out there, it is certainly very capable of doing precision work. From simple shapes to complex patterns, it can engrave almost any material with ease.
This rotary is great to begin with to test out your skill with rotational engraving.
This chuck is a major improvement over the orignal rotary and can make it so much easier to engrave that cup you always wanted.
Whether you get these feet or print your own feet, you need feet, and preferably with some height so you can engrave larger objects.
The air assist is needed to provide more cutting power but also to provide air flow for a better engraving. This air assist has proven effective in both of these jobs.
This enclosure is not only needed for ventilation of your engraving materials but is also needed for the safety of those around you. Make sure you wear protective glasses even when using an enclosure though!
Safety is the utmost priority. These are the glasses I choose to protect my eyes.
Decide though for yourself what would be best for you. Contact your optometrist for a recommendation.
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